Custom Bearbrick [Ferrari Edition]

This isn't Charles Leclerc's ride — but it belongs to someone just as passionate about the prancing horse. Our client, an avid F1 fanatic, wanted a custom Bearbrick that captured the spirit of Ferrari racing. This is the full process, step by step. No shortcuts, no compromises.

We only work with authentic Medicom Toy Bearbricks. No knock-offs, no bootlegs. The quality and structure of a genuine Medicom piece is the foundation that makes everything else possible. A real Bearbrick holds paint differently, sands cleaner, and is simply worth the investment for a collector-grade finish.

Before a single stroke of paint, we mock up the design digitally — mapping every colour zone, stencil placement, and detail onto the Bearbrick's body panels. For this Ferrari commission, we planned out the Rosso Corsa red base, the signature yellow racing stripe, the Scuderia shield on the chest, and the tyre-tread feet. This phase prevents costly mistakes later.

Every Medicom Bearbrick comes with a factory paint or gloss finish. We sand this down entirely to create a raw, receptive surface for our custom paint. The key here is that simpler factory designs sand down much faster — heavily printed or pre-painted variants take considerably more prep time, which is reflected in the commission timeline and complexity.

Once sanded, the entire Bearbrick is primed. We apply a minimal, even primer coating — not thick, not heavy. The goal is to seal the sanded surface just enough to accept paint, without adding bulk that could crack or peel over time. Think of it as the invisible foundation that makes everything on top last.

The painting sequence is everything. We always spray the lightest or largest colour first, then work toward darker and more detailed layers. For the Ferrari piece: the Rosso Corsa red went on first as the base coat, followed by masking and stenciling the yellow racing stripes, then the black detailing, and finally the Scuderia shield graphic. Getting the order wrong means repainting — and more sanding.

This is where the magic happens. We use an ultra-fine airbrush rather than rattle cans or hand brushes. The airbrush delivers a micro-fine mist of paint that settles uniformly onto the surface with zero brush strokes and virtually no splatter. The result is a surface that looks factory-smooth — or better. Up close, you'll see the detail. From a distance, it reads as clean and intentional.

We never rush this step. Between every layer of paint, we wait for the coat to fully cure before touching it again. Once set, we can safely tape over it, lay a stencil on top, and spray the next colour right next to the previous one without bleed or lifting. Patience in this phase is what separates a crisp finish from a muddy one.

Not a masterpiece yet — not until we varnish it. A final topcoat of clear varnish is applied over the entire completed Bearbrick. This seals all layers of paint beneath it, creates a durable surface, and gives the piece its final finish — whether that's gloss, satin, or matte depending on the commission. Think of it the same way a vinyl toy's factory coat protects its print: the varnish is what keeps your custom piece looking fresh for years.

Once the varnish has fully cured, your custom Bearbrick is complete. The joints — arms, legs, and head — can be moved, but we recommend against frequent repositioning. Every twist and rotation creates friction at the joint edges where paint meets paint, and over time this will cause the custom finish to wear at those contact points. The safer your piece stays in one position, the longer it looks perfect.

Not every design translates perfectly onto a Bearbrick — and we'll always be honest with you about what works and what doesn't. Here's our honest guide: